I am always aghast at the way normally sensible wine journalists with the capacity to create fine copy on deep and wide subject matters seem to become completely unstuck at Christmas. The subject matter is always what works well with Turkey and Christmas pudding, or what to pour when on a budget or ‘sizzlers by the open fire. I am sure you will be familiar with the prose.
However I am then slightly irritated by myself for not actually being able to come up with anything clever that will act as a foil to these reruns of Christmas past. It is sensible to speak of perfect food matches, as this is a time of year when people actually put some thought into it all and it makes a difference. It is good to know the gems that will delight the guest as much as the bank manager (the later on two accounts if you happen to invite them to your party). And it is certainly sensible to review the offers out there, from the most inexpensive to the very finest. So perhaps the answer is to leave this sort of thing to the nationals and concentrate on other seasonal matters.
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